【文化】在费尔干纳的手工作坊里，丝绸之路的遗产一直都存在着_风闻

正文翻译

Every Thursday and Sunday, flocks of shared taxis and minibuses make their way from the centre of Margilan to the Kumtepa Bazaar, the city’s largest market and one of the most important in Uzbekistan’s Fergana region.

每个周四和周天，许多的拼车出租车和小巴都会从马尔吉兰市中心开往库姆特帕集市，这是该市最大的集市，也是乌兹别克斯坦费尔干纳地区最重要的集市之一。

Summer mornings are especially busy, with people getting in early to strike a deal before the blazing sun reaches its highest point in the sky.

夏天的早晨尤其忙碌，人们很早就到这里，赶在烈日升到最高点之前达成交易。

From fresh produce to car parts, the labyrinthine alleys lix the stalls of Kumtepa to provide goods for all. But this bustling bazaar is not just a space for buying and selling—here, the legacy of the Silk Road comes alive, inviting you to explore a market where past and present converge in a symphony of sights, sounds, and stories.

从新鲜农产品到汽车零件，迷宫一样的小巷将库姆特帕的摊位连接起来摆放商品，为所有人提供商品。但是，这个繁华的集市并不仅仅是一个提供买卖的地方--这里，丝绸之路的遗产栩栩如生，邀请你探索一个市场，在这里，过去与现在交汇，形成一场视觉、听觉和故事的交响乐。

According to local folklore, the city of Margilan was founded by Alexander the Great in the 4th Century BCE, following his conquest of Persia. While such a story is not backed by archaeological evidence, the city flourished as a trading centre a few centuries later, after the Silk Road opened, providing a connection between Europe, the Middle East, and Central Asia.

根据当地民间传说，在公元前 4 世纪，亚历山大在征服波斯后建立了马尔吉兰城。虽然这种说法没有考古证据支持，但几个世纪后，丝绸之路开通后，这座城市作为贸易中心繁华起来了，为欧洲、中东和中亚提供了连接纽带。

Margilan, along with other cities like Kokand and Namangan, became a major centre for silk production. Silk and silk products were highly valued commodities along the Silk Road and Margilan’s contribution to silk production played a crucial role in the economy of the region. This is still the case today, as anyone who steps into the Kumtepa Bazaar will immediately notice.

马尔吉兰与科坎德（Kokand）和纳曼干（Namangan）等其他城市一起，成为丝绸生产的主要中心。丝绸和丝绸产品是丝绸之路上价值很高的商品，马尔吉兰的丝绸生产在该地区的经济中发挥了至关重要的作用。时至今日，依然如此。任何走进库姆特帕集市的人都会立马注意到这一点。

Margilan’s textiles are not just any textiles. The rolls of colourful fabrics on display at the market are the result of an ancient weaving technique that has survived the collapse of empires and khanates thanks to the Uzbek artisans keeping the tradition alive. Known as Ikat—meaning “to bind, tie, or wind around” in Malay-Indonesian—the most valuable product on sale at Kumtepa comes to life through painstaking manual dyeing and weaving of individual threads that combine forming vibrant patterns unachievable by modern printing.

马尔吉兰的纺织品并非普通的纺织品。市场上陈列的一卷卷彩色的织物是一种古老纺织技术的成果，这项技艺经历了帝国和汗国的崩溃，依然由乌兹别克工匠们传承下来。它被称为伊卡特（Ikat），这个词在马来语-印度尼西亚语中意味着“捆绑、系紧或缠绕”——在库姆特市场上最具价值的产品，通过繁琐的手工染色和织造每一根纱线来展现生机，这种方式形成的生动图案是现代印刷技术无法达到的。

To create a coveted Ikat cloth, yarns are stretched out on a frx, with sections tightly bound with a resist material, such as rubber bands, plastic strips, or natural fibers, to prevent the dye from penetrating the yarn in those areas, creating the pattern. The tied yarns are dipped into dye baths multiple times before being set up on the loom for weaving. The accuracy of each step is crucial, as any mistake can alter the intended design.

为了制作一块珍贵的伊卡特布料，纱线被拉伸在框架上，部分区域被用橡皮筋、塑料条或天然纤维等抗染料材料紧紧绑住，以防止染料渗透到这些区域，从而形成图案。绑好的纱线会多次浸入染料浴中，然后再布置在织布机上进行织造。每一步的精确度都至关重要，因为任何失误都会改变原本的设计。

Ikat-dyed fabrics are believed to have existed in India as early as the 2nd Century BCE. From there, the technique was brought into China, Japan, and South East Asia together with Buddhism via the networks of commercial routes that came to be known of the Silk Road.

据说，早在公元前 2 世纪，印度就有了伊卡特染色织物。从那里开始，这种技术与佛教一起，通过后来被称为 “丝绸之路 ”的商路网络传入中国、日本和东南亚。

When Silk Road trade reached its peak between the 3rd and 8th Centuries, merchants traveled westward across China from oasis to oasis, crossing the harsh terrain of the Taklamakan Desert to reach the fertile valleys of Fergana. Here, Ikat caught on. Not by coincidence—an indigenous variety of silk, known as adras or atlas and prized for its cloud-like softness, turned into the ideal medium for Ikat dyeing.

丝绸之路贸易在公元 3 至 8 世纪达到顶峰时，商人们向西旅行，穿过中国的一个又一个绿洲，穿越塔克拉玛干沙漠的恶劣地形，到达肥沃的费尔干纳山谷。在这里，伊卡特流行起来。这并非巧合--一种被称为阿德拉丝（adras）或阿特拉斯丝（atlas）的土生土长的丝绸，因其云朵般的柔软而备受赞誉，成为伊卡特染色的理想媒介。

Fergana’s Ikat, characterised by bright yellow, red, deep blue, and green patterns echoing elements of nature, was used instead of medals to commend royals in the 12th Century. When it boomed internationally in the 19th Century, it become a luxurious possession only the elite could afford to wear. Ikat silk made in the Fergana Valley was exported to Iran, Turkey, Russia as well as in the Khanates of Khiva and Bukhara, which received nearly 200 tonnes of Margilan silk carried by 1000 camels in the 1860s.

费尔干纳的 “伊卡特 ”图案以明亮的黄色、红色、深蓝色和绿色为主，与自然元素相呼应。19 世纪，伊卡特在国际上蓬勃发展，成为只有精英阶层才穿得起的奢侈品。费尔干纳河谷生产的伊卡特丝绸出口到伊朗、土耳其、俄罗斯以及希瓦汗国和布哈拉汗国，19 世纪 60 年代，希瓦汗国收到了 1000 头骆驼驮来的近 200 吨马尔吉兰丝绸。

原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Despite Soviet industrialisation in the 20th Century, Margilan has managed to keep the craft intact over the centuries. The Kumtepa Bazaar still sells the largest variety of hand-tied Ikat textiles in Central Asia and hundreds of artisans continue to produce fine fabrics manually in the city’s local workshops. In 2008, London’s V&A museum dedicated a show to this ancient Central Asian tradition, which then featured in Gucci’s catalogue in 2010.

尽管苏联在 20 世纪进行了工业化改造，但几个世纪以来，马尔吉兰仍成功地保留了这一工艺。库姆特帕集市（Kumtepa Bazaar）仍在出售中亚品种最多的手工扎染伊卡特织物，数百名工匠仍在该市的当地作坊里手工制作精美的织物。2008 年，伦敦 V&A 博物馆专门为这一古老的中亚传统举办了一场展览，2010 年，Gucci的产品目录中也出现了这一展品。

Yet, Ikat is only one of the crafts that have come to shape Fergana Valley’s identity as a thriving cultural hub in Uzbekistan. While Margilan traded in fabrics, Rishtan, 50km west, grew as one of Central Asia’s key nodes for ceramics production and commerce.

然而，伊卡特只是塑造费尔干纳谷作为乌兹别克斯坦繁荣文化中心身份的工艺之一。在马尔吉兰从事织物贸易的同时，位于西部 50 公里处的里什坦，也发展成为中亚陶瓷生产和贸易的重要节点之一。

Kilns dating as far back as the 1st Century BCE have been unearthed by archaeologists in the area, and over two millennia, Rishtan has continued to create stunning ceramics recognisable from their blue, turquoise, and aquamarine patterns. Today, Rishtan is home to over 100 master potters who keep busy adorning ceramics with heavenly scenes using a blue glaze called ishkor, which combines colourants from quartz with ashes obtained by burning plants specifically sexted for this purpose. The clay used in Rishtan ceramics is sourced from the local red clay deposits, giving the pottery a distinct earthy quality.

考古学家在该地区发掘出的窑炉可追溯到公元前 1 世纪，两千多年来，里什坦（Rishtan）依然延续着创造令人惊叹的陶瓷工艺，凭借其蓝色、绿松石色和水蓝色的图案而闻名于世。如今，里什坦是 100 多名陶艺大师的家园，他们一直忙于用一种名为伊什科尔（ishkor）的蓝色釉料来装饰陶瓷，伊什科尔釉料通过将石英中的色素与专门为此目的燃烧植物获得的灰烬结合而成。里什坦陶瓷使用的黏土来自当地的红土矿床，使陶瓷具有独特的泥土质感。

In recent years, the Rishtan International Ceramics Center has been established to showcase the work of local potters and promote the region’s ceramic heritage. The centre features workshops, shops, and a museum dedicated to the history of pottery making in the Fergana Valley. Visitors can watch skilled artisans at work, learn about traditional techniques, and purchase one of the handmade ceramics developed thanks to centuries of exchanges and encounters along the Silk Road.

近年来，里什坦国际陶瓷中心已经成立了，主要为展示当地陶艺家的作品，并宣传该地区的陶瓷遗产。该中心设有工作室、商店和一个博物馆，专门介绍费尔干纳谷的制陶历史。游客可以观看技艺高超的工匠工作，了解传统工艺，还可以购买几百年来丝绸之路上的交流和碰撞所产生的手工陶瓷。

原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Margilan and Rishtan invite the intrepid, curious traveller to explore their rich cultural heritage, where the past and present intertwine in a celebration of craftsmanship and tradition.

马尔吉兰和里什坦邀请勇敢、好奇的游客探索其丰富的文化遗产，在这里，过去与现在交织成一场对工艺与传统的庆典。